Supply List

Below is a list of everything you should or must have in place in your home before you pick up your puppy. Most items have links to Amazon (or occasionally Chewy). See also the Resources & Links page.

 

Baxter & Bella Training Program:  Thrilled to be partnered with Baxter & Bella – an AMAZING training resource no matter where in the country (or world) you are. I work super hard to start your puppy off on the right paw and send him to you confident, social, with housebreaking started, and manners begun. BAXTER & Bella’s Online Puppy School provides a seamless transition from my home to yours by educating you how to train and interact with your puppy to get the best possible results and continue the work that I began in your pup’s first 8 weeks. Not only will you learn the skills you need to be successful, but your puppy will learn incredible manners and behaviors as well! The program is set up for you to complete the first two units BEFORE your puppy comes home so I definitely recommend signing up right away and getting started. Amy (the trainer) helps you set up your home, get your family all on the same page and teaches you exactly what to do the second your puppy arrives for optimal training success. You only pay one small fee EVER – and lifetime support is included in that, as well as one-on-one lessons with the trainer if you need it and a ton more! Check it out by clicking here and be sure to use the Discount Code MBP for an instant 25% off – an incredible value on their lifetime membership. I STRONGLY recommend you sign up and use this program. It’s a phenomenal resource with a skilled trainer.

Magenta Bay Poodles’ One-time, 1.5 hour, Virtual Class to Prepare you for Your New Pup: I’ve been a professional dog trainer for 30 years and this is a class I have been offering in my training studio for many, many years. I also offer it virtually to my new puppy families before they pick up their puppies. It’s wonderful for helping you feel prepared for your new pup and not stressed or overwhelmed. If you are getting a pup from me, you do not need to do anything and there is no charge. I will be in touch as to when the wait list folks will meet. If you’re getting a puppy from someone else and want to take this class, please click here to contact me to find out when the next one is given! If it’s a group class, it will be held via Zoom. If you need a special time (private class), it will be via telephone. Here is the class description:

Everything you ever wanted to know about raising your puppy! This one-time,1.5-hour class for humans only, given by a professional trainer, will arm you with tons of advice, knowledge, and tips about raising a puppy. The objective of this class is to help you feel confident in raising your new puppy well. It is meant to be taken *before* you get your new puppy so you feel ready when he/she arrives! Some of the topics covered are housebreaking, crate-training, socializing the pup with people/places/things/other dogs, keeping puppy safe from disease, mouthing/teething, chewing, whining/crying, house manners, exercise, nutrition, health, responsible dog ownership, toys, and more. A new puppy can sometimes feel overwhelming (especially if you’ve never had one or haven’t had one in a while) and feeling prepared can help an awful lot! This class/workshop is given virtually!
     Please note that this is not a lecture! While I have certain topics that I am sure to cover, I run the class more as a question and answer, or a give-and-take! You are welcome to have older children and your significant other be part of it, too. (Younger children will generally get bored.)

Books: Please be sure to get the books on the “Strongly suggested” list and read before you get the pup home.  They will prepare you for raising your new little sweetheart properly and without big issues. It’s much easier to do it “right” from the beginning than it is to go back and try to correct things that have become habit.

Strongly suggested (necessary):

Suggested (good to have but not a requirement):

Crate: I recommend either the Petmate Compass, size Small (10-20 lbs, 24.6x 6.9×15 inches) to start and the Intermediate (30-50 lbs, 32x21x23 inches) for later, or if you want one with a divider, then the Petmate Navigator, size Intermediate (30-50 lbs, 32.1x21x23 inches) or size Large (50-70 lbs, 36.1×23.3×26.7 inches).  I personally prefer using the smaller crate in the beginning and then getting a bigger one, but it’s your option!

While my strong preference is for the above crates, if you cannot find them due to current supply chain issues, next choice is Chewy’s brand Frisco, plastic kennel.  Here again, size Small to start (10-20 pounds), and the Intermediate (30-50 pounds) for later.

Crate Mat: I’m often asked “What should I put on the floor of the crate?” Remember, some pups chew anything that’s in there! If you have one of those, I wouldn’t put anything at all down until he outgrows the chewing stage. Otherwise, my VERY favorite crate mats are actually made by chewy.com (their brand is called Frisco). They are a little “stiff” so don’t lend themselves to being bunched up and/or chewed. Yet they’re soft and comfy and stay put. VERY affordable, too.  They are called Frisco Micro Terry Pet Bed & Crate Mat.  They only come in one color right now: taupe.

  • For the Petmate Compass crate, size Small (10-20 lbs), you want the 22-inch crate mat.
  • For the Petmate Compass/Navigator, size Medium (20-30 lbs), you want the 24-inch mat.
  • For the Petmate Compass/Navigator, size Intermediate (30-50 lbs), you want the 30-inch mat.

Digestive Enzymes & Probiotics: These are the only supplements I recommend. Your puppy, since weaning, has been getting probiotics AND digestive enzymes added to his/her food once a day. I strongly encourage you to continue. I use and recommend NWC Naturals’ Total-Zymes and Total-Biotics. They are a powder that you add to his food once or twice a day.  Note that link is for a twin pack, which is a tub of each (digestive enzymes and probiotics) – your dog needs both.

Firm-Up Pumpkin: Pumpkin is amazingly good stuff to help with both diarrhea and constipation.  It’s a digestive regulator so it helps with both. If your pup has loose stool, you can get a can of organic pumpkin (JUST pumpkin – not the pie filling!) from the market and give a teaspoon of it, or, far better, you can rehydrate a bit of Firm-up and give that.  Firm-up is dehydrated pumpkin with a bit of apple. You only rehydrate as much as you need, so no waste. Just add water and give to your pup. 🙂

Food Dishes: Stainless steel is definitely the best. Avoid plastic and ceramic/glass. I like the non-slip, no-tip ones.  The shape of these are great for when your poodle’s ears are longer, too – they won’t be in the food or water.

  • If you prefer a non-slip bowl that doesn’t have the removable rubber ring at the bottom and instead has a bonded silicone ring that never comes off, this one by PetFusion is wonderful.  I’d get the 14 oz one for pups through adults up to about 30 pounds, and the 32 oz for adults 35 lbs+.  (My dogs use the 14 oz just fine, and I can tell you that these dishes handle the dishwasher beautifully and are a lot durable!)
  • Platinum Pets makes a great bowl that cleans well and has great colors to choose from as well.  Has a removable rubber ring around the bottom. I suggest 10 oz bowls (size “small” if you click that link) for pups, and size medium for adults.

Collar: You’ll need a small (8-12″), flat adjustable collar for your young pup.  (Do NOT put a “choke” chain on a puppy!!!)  People always come to pick up their puppy with a too-big collar. Please stick with 8-12″.  Look for a 1/2″ wide collar.  Because the collar will be taken on and off every time you put the put in the crate, definitely get adjustable.

For the pups, I like the soft ones such as those made by Red Dingo. Below are some links to various colors of Red Dingo collars.

When your pup gets a bit older (around 4 months), I love the Blueberry collars. Great collars and come in amazing colors. For this size dog, the Small will fit from 4-5 months old and for their whole life. You want the “Regular Collar” not the martingale

Leash: You’ll need a 6′ leash. I would go with 5/8″ width. Until the pup is no longer chewing, I’d stick with Nylon. Don’t get chain, don’t get the round “rope” ones, and don’t yet get an expensive leather one (later yes – not while he’s chewing). Here is an example of a good 6′ Nylon leash made by Hamilton in a bunch of color choices.

Harness:  I don’t generally recommend a harness on this size dog for everyday walking.  However, you should have one on your dog along with a seat belt leash (see below) for restraint in the car. It is VERY unsafe for them to ride free in the car (they become flying projectiles in a crash). Never attach a seat belt harness to your dog’s neck collar!  I love the “Puppia soft vest harness” best for this purpose.  Small or Medium is what you want for a puppy at take-home age (ask me to check once we know which pup is yours). Here they are in various colors.

Seat Belt Leash: To be used with a harness ONLY – never on your dog’s collar. They are adjustable and snap right into your car’s seat belt buckle. I love the ones by Blueberry Pet – many different colors and well made! (Some people feel that the ones with bungee-type elastic are better. Others, like me, worry about the extra length they allow in a crash. If you want the bungee-type, you can find them on Amazon. Below are the non-bungee seatbelt leashes.)

If you prefer a seal belt leash that connects around the headrest, there’s this one.

Treats:  These are not snacks like biscuits – rather these are to be used as training treats. Try to be careful with treats and be sure they don’t have a bunch of garbage in them. They really don’t need salt, cane molasses, a bunch of preservatives, etc.  Here are the ones I like best and generally have in the training studio.

  • Merrick Power Bites. These are small, moist treats that dogs usually love. I use them in the training studio – they are fantastic as training treats.
  • Zuke’s Mini Naturals. Another small, moist treat that dogs tend to love. Another staple in my training studio!
  • Wellness Core Pure Rewards. Also moist, these are flat and square shaped and can be ripped into small strips.
  • Wellness Wellbites. Good ingredients and nice soft and moist treats.
  • Tricky Trainers, chewy. These come either crunchy or chewy. With training treats, you are always better off with moist (chewy).
  • Redbarn Lamb Lung Filets. These are high value treats – use when you really need your dog’s attention or when you want to give a big reward. They are big so you need to snap off pieces – but they are well worth it.

Odor & Stain Remover: You MUST have this to properly clean housebreaking accidents. This is, by far, the best:  Nature’s Miracle Stain & Odor Remover. When I raise a puppy, I buy the 16 oz bottle and a gallon for refills.

Chew Deterrent: Very best, in my opinion, is Grannick’s Bitter Apple. You want the pump top.

Toys: All puppies – and adults! – need a wide variety of toys of different types. NO ROPES!! (Why? Read this please.)  And no latex either – they can way too easily chew pieces off and swallow them.

  • First, every puppy should have a Kong. I’d go with Medium for now.
  • There are a few Petstages puppy toys I think most pups love. One is the Petstages No Stuffing squeak toy (2 different kinds of squeakers).
  • Some hard rubber toys that they like are JW Pet’s Hol-ee Roller, and their Invincible Chains Triple (large).
  • Squeaky spiky balls are great too – like this one.
  • And of course, plush squeaky toys are really necessary. They love the Skinneeez no stuffing toys, and anything that makes a different kind of noise. And of course, any of the hundreds of choices of stuffed plush toys with squeakers inside. Remember to supervise so stuffing doesn’t get swallowed and/or squeakers don’t get choked on!
  • Giggle Balls are great for pups too – they usually delight in the bizarre sounds the ball makes! (Don’t be surprised if your young pup is not thrilled with a giggle ball. They tend to start loving them around 3 months old.)
  • Fleece tugs. These are rope-like toys without the dangers! Have a look at this, or this, or this.

Feeling Secure: This is now required for my puppy families. Yes, it helps them that much. These Snuggle Puppy stuffed dogs have a heartbeat and are super comforting for your new pup. The heartbeat really does seem to soothe the pups and help make their transition easier!  I would keep your eye on it often – make sure they are not chewing it.  (They also come with a thing inside (gel pack) to make the stuffy warm. I personally don’t use that one piece.) Six colors to choose from:

Beds: Your pup absolutely needs at least one comfy bed for when he’s not snoozing in the crate.  You generally don’t want to spend a huge amount of money on beds for pups as they have a tendency to chew them up or toss them around as a big stuffed toy. So look for reasonably durable and washable. Your puppy will be well used to (and fond of) “Cuddler” beds. Here are my favorites:

  • Love the cheapo ones (normal, sort of “larger cat” size) from PetSmart for when they are young. They usually have big displays when you enter of different fabrics. They wash super well, too. Here’s an example. They come in round, too.
  • The Original Calming Donut Bed. They love these. Probably good to wait until you are past major chewing stage.

Chewies: Puppies must have things to chew on. Not only is it stress relief, but it also helps them get baby teeth out and adult teeth in. Below are links to the chewies I recommend your dog be able to choose from.

  • Bully Sticks: I recommend 10-12″, as fat as you can find affordably.  I do not recommend curly or braided.  These are one of the few things that seem to be more expensive online and you may be better  buying in a local store. Beware: some brands (and chains of stores) have bully sticks with a strong unpleasant odor. So far, my favorites with the best price are from “Best Bully Sticks” – see link.)
  • Bully Stick Safety Holder: You absolutely need this. When dogs chew their bully stick down to a few inches, they can swallow it – and it gets stuck – or they can (and do) get it caught left to right in the back of their mouth. The holders keep all the bad stuff from happening and keep you from having to stress. You want Small or Medium, depending on your dog’s eventual size and the size of bully stick you are buying.
  • Split Deer Antler: Go with Medium (about 6-7″ in length)
  • Water Buffalo Horn: For your pup, you want one about 6 inches.
  • Bullymake nylon chewies: Bullymake makes the best nylon chews I’ve found.  Usually dogs are lukewarm at best for nylon chews – not so with Bullymake. They generally love them! Bullymake is a subscription service – you can get boxes as often (or not) as you want. NOTE that you can choose what type toys they should send. Do this! You do NOT want rope (no ropes!!!). They also have tugs in a tough material called “ballistic” – those they usually really like too. They also have rubber – this will depend on your dog. Mine bite little pieces off – not good. Some dogs are just fine. They offer treats as well. We don’t do those either but you might want to. But their nylon chewies are great.
  • Goat Horn
  • Cow Hooves: Do not get them stuffed/filled with anything! These are another of those things that might be cheaper to find singly at your pet store.
  • Himalayan Gold Yak Dog Chews. They love them.  When the chews gets to 2-3 inches, take it away and follow their directions to puff them in the microwave and feed as a treat.

Brush: Your poodle pup needs to be brushed in between grooming appointments. The best brush to use, in my opinion, if your dog is in a relatively short clip, is a pin brush without balls on the ends of the pins. Here are three choices:

Slicker Brush: If your dog is anything other than pretty short-haired, you will need a slicker. Please learn how to use it – if you push too hard you can scratch them. Here are some choices:

Comb: Poodles should be brushed first, then combed through to be sure they do not have knots, tangles, or mats – especially their ears and tails! The very best type comb to use is called a greyhound comb. (No, not for the breed dog! More about how quickly it glides through the coat.) Here are some choices:

Shampoo: Since your pup will be getting professionally groomed every 4-6 weeks (depending on the look you choose to keep him in and how often you brush), you ought not have to give a bath yourself very often.  But it does happen, so definitely worth having a good shampoo on hand. Here are my favorites.

Collapsible Grooming Table: If you do any grooming/cleaning up/bathing/drying/etc with your dog between grooming appointments, this is a must have. Inexpensive and folds flat for storage when not in use. Very reliable. Perfect for occasional at-home use!

Collapsible Raised Tub: An absolute back- and knee-saver!  No more bending over the bathtub. Fits in a standard bathtub and allows you to stand and bathe rather than all hunched over. If your dog is wild, freaked, or a major leaper, this may not be the best for you, but for all others, it’s pretty awesome. You can easily bathe dogs up to about 20 or 21″ tall in here.  Taller if they’re calm. 30-pound moyens fit just fine!

Detangler/Dematter and Grooming Spray/Conditioner: Wonderful product to have on hand for those times (and there will be those times!) that your dog has a mat in his ear or tail. This spray helps you glide right on through it and get the tangles out. You can also spray it on as a conditioner and it’ll help keep the coat from matting. There are two choices, both excellent.

Nail Care: Your pup will be well used having his nails ground. When they’re young, it’s done 3 times a week so they don’t scratch mom up while nursing.  I use a Dremel. If you choose to continue that, here are your two best choices: Dremel 7350 Pet & Dog Nail Grinder or the Dremel PawControl 7760. If you prefer to clip nails with clippers,  the easiest ones to use are those held like scissors, like these.  Always have something on hand to stop bleeding if you cut too close to the quick – like Kwik-Stop.

Ear Care: For routine cleaning, nothing better than EpiOtic Advanced.

Dental Care: A lot of people (me included) prefer the finger toothbrushes to those with a handle. Most especially with a puppy.

Surgi-Suit (for after spay/neuter etc): No, they don’t generally need the awful, hated cone. Many, many vets now send them home in a surgi-suit. They’re comfortable and they can’t get to their incision. (Obviously WATCH your dog and if they’re chewing at the fabric or near their incision, they need the cone.) If your vet doesn’t automatically give you a surgi-suit, clear it with him, and get yourself this great one from Amazon. It’s called a SurgiSnuggly. Measure carefully. I have used mine after spays, neuters, c-section, etc. Awesome.

Panties for Girls in Heat: If you are leaving your girl intact for 1-2 heat cycles as recommended, you will need panties for when she’s in heat and bleeding. There are MANY choices out there. She will hate the disposable ones; don’t make her unhappy. Here are some decent choices. Just use a human panty liner (“Always,” UNscented, no wings) inside and change it when she goes out to toilet. Pay attention to sizing and measurements!

  • Wegreeco 3-pack – Lower-cost, super easy to get, they hold up well and work well.
  • Briefs for Girls – These are high quality, super comfortable, made by a company called “Pants for Dogs.” If it says “Currently Unavailable,” they are talking about that fabric choice, NOT the panties as a whole or the entire size. Just pick another fabric choice.

Post-vaccines: This is a homeopathic remedy call Rebalancer (used to be called Anti-Vaccinosis) made by Adored Beast Apothecary that helps to remove side effects of vaccines but does NOT reduce their effectiveness or benefits. Easy and safe to use on all puppies and adults. It’s a pump top bottle and you spray it right into their mouth. (Directions are in the link.)  I use it on entire litters after all inoculations and on my own dogs after every vaccine.  It’s made of just Thuja and Silicea. See link for full details.  To me, this is an absolute MUST have.

Please DO NOT purchase any of the below items for your puppy or grown dog!

  • Rope toys (Why no ropes? Incredibly dangerous when they swallow strands. Read this post.)
  • Marrow bones (Why? So many problems. Dogs can get their lower jaws caught inside with canine teeth stuck outside, and because they are from weight-bearing bones, they cause way more broken teeth – usually slab fractures – than they are worth.)
  • Rawhide (Why? Oh so many reasons. Filled with chemicals, and they are NOT digestible, so huge potential for impaction. Read about it here and here.)

Food: You’ll need a bag of the food the puppy was weaned onto.  I rotate between a few brands of high quality kibble; shortly before your pup goes home, I will let you know which food you need to get. Currently, these are the brands in my rotation, listed in no particular order. (The heart issues being looked at by the FDA are NOT shown to be caused by grain-free diets!  Read more on that by clicking here.)

Grain-free formulations:

  • Bixbi Rawbble. Fantastic raw-coated kibble, made with fresh meat and high quality ingredients (no garbage), and single protein for digestibility and sensitive bellies. For pups and adults.
  • Bixbi Liberty. Love Bixbi food. Liberty is cooked at low temperatures, made in the USA, and is highly digestible. For pups and adults. Here are their grain-free formulas; scroll down for the “Grain-inclusive” section below for some of the formulas with high quality grain instead.
  • Acana Singles Limited Ingredient Diet – Grain-Free. Fantastic, high quality food. For pups and adults. Links are for 13 pound bags.
  • Canine Caviar. High quality food made by a super supportive company. Single protein and single carbohydrate.  Great for digestibility and for allergies. Most of the forumulations have a small bit of high-quality grain (like pearl millet, quinoa, etc) – see those in the Grain-inclusive section below. But they do make one grain-free variety:
  • Nulo Freestyle Limited Ingredient. Great for sensitive stomachs or dogs with allergies. Links are for 10-pound bags.  For pups or adults.
  • Instinct Raw Boost (this is a kibble mixed with some freeze-fried raw bites). For pups or adults.
  • Instinct, grain-free, limited ingredient diet. I suggest getting the 11 pound bag. For adult dogs only (maintenance). Here are the links for the various varieties:
  • Canidae Pure. Limited ingredient diets with simple ingredients – great for sensitive stomachs. For adults only (maintenance).
  • Honest Kitchen Grain-free Whole Food Clusters. Amazingly good food. Minimally processed, human-grade, cold-pressed, dehydrated, all ingredients are chemical/preservative/by-product free, non-GMO, made in the USA, and all meat is antibiotic and hormone free. Potatoes in this one so if your dog is sensitive to white potatoes, this one isn’t for you. For pups or adults.
  • Wellness Core RawRev, grain-free (this is a kibble mixed with some freeze-dried raw bites). I suggest getting the 10-pound bag. For adult dogs only (maintenance). Here are the links for the varieties:
  • Merrick Lil Plates Grain-free Small Breed. Decent kibble that’s in nice small pieces to make it easy for the puppies. Has potatoes though, so if your dog is sensitive to white potatoes, pick something else.
    Real Texas Beef + Sweet Potato Recipe

Grain-inclusive (with grain) formulations:

  • Bixbi Liberty. Liberty is cooked at low temperatures, made in the USA, and is highly digestible. Fresh and HIGH quality. Here are their formulas that include a bit of high quality grains; scroll up for the “Grain-free” section for their formulas without grain.
  • Canine Caviar. High quality food made by a super supportive company. Most of the forumulations have a small bit of high-quality grain (like pearl millet, quinoa, etc). Single protein and single carbohydrate.  Great for digestibility and for allergies.
  • Nature’s Logic.  A wonderful, high-quality food that is lightly grain-inclusive (with grain), but the main grain they use (millet) is high quality and hypo-allergenic. Heavily meat-based food with no garbage.  For pups or adults.
  • Instinct Be Natural. This is a high quality food WITH GRAIN for those who prefer to not feed grain-free.  Pups or adults.
  • Stella’s Essentials – Wholesome Grain. Made  by Stella & Chewy’s, this is a grain-inclusive kibble with high quality grains and is pea-free, potato-free, and lentil-free.  No corn, wheat, or soy protein and no by-products. For pups or adults.
  • Earthborn Holistic Unrefined. Grain-inclusive formula with high quality ancient grains and superfoods and no peas, potatoes, chicken, lentils, or legumes. For pups or adults.
  • Merrick Classic Healthy Grains
    • Real beef + brown rice. Grain-inclusive with high quality grains and no poultry, potato, lentils, or peas. Has multiple protein (beef, pork, salmon, lamb) so only choose if you know your dog has no sensitivities. For adults dogs only – not pups.

Super high-quality, very pricey food – as meals, toppers, or treats!

    • Ziwi Peak. Unless you have a very small dog, financially this is probably not an option to feed as full meals. Most use it as either toppers (crumble on top of kibble) or as treats. It is up to 96% meat with “superfoods” added, air-dried,and free of unnecessary carbohydrates. Links are for a 1-pound bag.
    • Carna4 . Here again, unless you have a teeny dog, you likely won’t be able to feed this as full meals. Topper or treats! Carna4 is gently- and quick-baked and air-dried and made from whole foods sourced only in the US and Canada.